Ajaysekher.net » Eco Watch

Aquilas of Vembanad

Ajay — Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:21:18 +0000

Greater Spotted Eagle, Cheepunkal, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Oriental Turtle Dove, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

During the 2012 Vembanad waterfowl count I surveyed Kaipuzhamuttu and Cheepunkal areas with Adv Sureshbabu Thomas, Manu and other friends. The highlight was a pair of Greater Spotted Eagles combing Cheepunkal fields. We also spotted an Oriental Turtle Dove there which is a second sighting in the region. A Chestnut Bittern was also seen.

Greater Spotted Eagle, Cheepunkal, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Paradise Flycatcher, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Flight of Gr Spotted Eagle

Spotted Owlet, Kumarakam

Gr Spotted Eagle at Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Greater Spotted Eagle in action, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Oriental Turtle Dove, Kumarakam 22 Jan 2012

Birds of Kol Wetland and Birder’s Meet 2012

Ajay — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 12:36:58 +0000

Plain Prinia, Adat Kol. 8 Jan 2012

As part of the Kol bird count 2012 I explored the Adat-Ambakad Kol fields with Vivek Chandran and other friends from College of Forestry on the morning of January 8, 2o12.

Open-bill Storks, Near Pullazhi Kol

We saw plenty of Small Pratincoles, Whiskered Terns, Cormorants, Barn Swallows, Bee-eaters, Munias, Sandpipers, Marsh Harriers, Storks, Egrets, Coots etc.

Brown Shrike, Kol 8 Jan 2012

A Peregrine Falcon and a small group of Little Stints were the highlights of the day. The birder”s meet at Sahitya Akademi at noon was also interesting.

Vivek Chandran and team in Adat Kol, 8 Jan 2012

Baya Weavers in Kol

Clamerous Reed Warbler, Kol 8 Jan 2012

Spotted or Scaly-breasted Munia, Kol 8 Jan 2012

Little Stints, Kol 8 Jan 2012

Small Pratincole in flight, Kol 8 Jan 2012

Barn Swallow, Kol 8 Jan 2012

Marsh Harrier (female), Adat Kol 8 Jan 2012

Peregrine Falcon, Adat Kol, 8 Jan 2012

Birder's Meet, Sahitya Akademi, Thrissur. 8 Jan 2012. Nameer, Sasikumar, Prasad, Basheer...

Christmas Birding in Kumarakam

Ajay — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 15:46:26 +0000

Black-shouldered Kite, Kumarakam paddyfields near Chengalam. 25-11-2011

I could also see a snipe, plenty of waders, egrets, cormorants, raptors, teals and much much more. It was a bright, blue sunny day and the new designed Kumarakam corridor is a delight to ride.

Green groves and paddyfields of Kumarakam

Peacock Pansy, Kumarakam. 25-12-2011

Spotted or Wood Sandpiper, Kumarakam

Brown Shrike at Kumarakam

Purple Heron, Kumarakam

Black-headed Munia, Kumarakam

Blue-tailed Beeeater, Kumarakam. 25-12-11

Bees swarming to Thumba blossoms in Kumarakam

Black-shouldered Kite, Kumarakam

Booted Eagles in Kol Wetland

Ajay — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 04:21:59 +0000

A Booted Eagle soaring above Enamavu Kol wetland, Thrissur. Oct 8, 2011

Birds of prey hunting Egrets in Kol

Booted Eagles on a mid-air encounter at least 500 m above Enamavu Kol, Thrissur. Oct 8, 2011

Booted Eagle showing white spots on either sides of the head. It is called 'Spotlights'. Enamavu Kol wetland, Thrissur, Oct 8, 2011

A raptor eating its prey near Adat Kol, Thrissur. Oct 8, 2011

Small Blue Kingfisher in Kol wetland, Thrissur. Oct 8, 2011

View of Thrissur city (in horizon) from Adat Kol wetland

A raptor at Kol. Oct 8, 2011

Globe Skimmer or Wandering Glider in flight. The migration of Thula Thumby started before the month of Thulam in Thrissur. Oct 8, 2011. Enamavu Kol, Thrissur

Asian Openbill Storks soaring high above Puzhakal Kol. View from Enamavu Kol. Oct 8, 2011.

Globe Skimmers amidst their migration in Kol

Glossy Ibises in Enamavu Kol. Oct 8, 2011

Riding inside Kol is a unique experience; the long and winding bunds take you to unknown locations, where nature is at its theatrically best.

Nature’s Magical Canvas: Sunset on Vilangan Hills

Ajay — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 07:43:53 +0000

Sunset from the top of Vilangan hills, Thrissur. 29 Sept. 2011

I re-visited the Vilangan Hills a few days ago after a long gap of four years. It is a delight to ride to the top of this ancient laterite hill that rises to almost 300m from sea level, from the Kol fields of Thrissur in the suburbs of the city towards north west.

City of Thrissur from the Vilangan hills; Sobha city rising in the left

The red-soiled hillock is covered in green vegetation after the long monsoon this year. Bamboo groves and Bonsai shrubs and scrubs are also doting the hillside with charm. We can also get a panoramic view around. The view of Thrissur city, the new emerging Sobha city(!) and the breathtaking view o the Kol fields towards the west are really challenging and inspiring for the visually inclined.

View of Kol fields and wetlands towards the west of Thrissur city; from Vilangan hills

There are plenty of visitors. School girls and local boys, families and lonely travelers are plenty on the top. We also met a film crew from Trivandrum looking for ideal locations to shoot a Prithviraj starer. The cinematographers in the crew were hooked up the beautiful sunset and its rare colors on the western firmament like me.

Jaime atop Vilangan; Kol fields in the backdrop below

They also tried to capture those incredible moments in camera like me. Some of them borrowed my Lumix FZ 28 for a while to admire the unique canvas of nature at that unforgettable moment. It was a soothing and emancipating visual moment for all of us: nature lovers, photographers, artists and sensitive human beings atop the marvelous hillock.

Incredible sunset: Riding upto the summit of Vilangan hills; Photo: Anish Tvm

Colors and textures of nature: Sunset on Vilangan

Melting hues of the eve: Sunset from Vilangan

Returning after the sojourn in Vilangan in the backdrop of a polyphonic sunset. Photo: Anish Tvm

Ode to Flight: A Poem in Photographic Images

Ajay — Mon, 06 Jun 2011 16:13:51 +0000

Spreading the wings of imagination: The great White-bellied Sea Eagle of north Malabar at Manjeswaram, Kasaragod, early 2011

Awesome and moving: White-bellied Sea Eagle takingoff, Bekal, Kasaragod, early 2011

Dive and fall in flight: Sea Eagle at Bekal, Kasaragod, early 2011

Agile and dashing: Osprey above Chempallikund near Ezhimala, Kannur, early 2011

As if still and hovering: Booted Eagle soaring above Chempallikund, Kannur, early 2011

Fast and dynamic: White-bellied Sea Eagle at Manjeswaram, Kasaragod, early 2011

Flight and fight: A mid-air encounter between Brahmany Kite and Sea Eagle at Manjeswaram, Kasaragod, early 2011

Incredible and sensational: The undulating flight of Eurasian Marsh Harrier above Kannur Kaipad wetland, early 2011

Massive in mid-air: W B Sea Eagle at Manjeswaram, early 2011

Flight and freedom: Survival of the sea eagle in Kerala

Migratory Birds in Kasaragod: Season 2011

Ajay — Thu, 12 May 2011 18:53:37 +0000

Terek Sandpiper and Sand Plover, Manjeswar river mouth, March 2011

Kasaragod the northernmost district of Kerala is endowed with beautiful beaches and estuaries that host a range of winged visitors from far and wide. Manjeswaram, Kumbala and Thalangara/Chandragiri form the major estuarine habitats of Tulunadu that welcome the migratory birds from all over the world in large numbers.

Sand Plovers at Manjeswar beach, March 2011

Since I am currently teaching at Govt. College Kasaragod I am able to observe the biodiversity and ecological importance of rivers and estuarine wetlands in the Kasaragod coast that lure the shorebirds from thousands of miles afar.

Paradise Flycatcher, Vidyanagar, Kasaragod, Feb 2011

My isolated evenings and weekends in the margin of Kerala were cheerfully blessed and environmentally sensitized by these feathered friends from alien shores. Thanks to these ancient navigators and globe trotters I learn many things from them.

Waders and shorebirds near Manjeswar river mouth, March 2011

Now that we have got rid of the agent of end and it requires years for the cleaning up of rivers and wetlands, I repeat my earlier idea for conserving these unique environmental treasures by declaring them as community reserves at least after the success story of Kadalundy where the numbers have dwindled this season.

Red Shank and Green Shank, Manjeswar beach, March 2011

As the migratory season is coming to a close and the world is observing Migratory Bird Day on 14 and 15 May 2011 let me present my snaps of shore birds, waders and migratory birds that I encountered on the beaches, wetlands, estuaries and woodlands of Kasaragod.

Migratory shore birds near the mouth of river Chandragiri, Kasaragod, Feb 2011

I salute their instinct for survival against all the pressures of development, pollution, urbanization, reclamation and increased human encroachment and alteration in their natural habitat and wetland ecology.

Sanderlings and Curlew Sandpipers, Thalangara estuary, Kasaragod, Jan 2011

Let us salute the enduring spirit of life that transcends continents and let us uphold the ethics and politics of conservation for the endangered and for all of us. Let us protect these little ones and protect our future and the future of our planet.

Black and Brown headed Gulls in Kumbala estuary, Jan 2011

Western Reef Egret, Thalangara/Chandragiri estuary, Jan 2011

Kentish Plovers, Kasaragod beach, Feb 2011

Gulls, waders and shore birds at Chandragiri river mouth, March 2011

Dunlins and Sanderlings, Kumbala beach, Feb 2011

Waders mostly shanks, Punjavi beach, Kanjangad, Feb 2011

Pallas' Gull, Thalangara/Chandragiri estuary, March 2011

Eurasian Curlews, Thalangara estuary, Jan 2011

Sunset in Thalangara/Chandragiri estuary, Kasaragod, Jan 2011

Marsh Harrier Wintering in Kannur Kaipad Wetlands

Ajay — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 06:34:04 +0000

Eurasian Marsh Harrier wintering in Odayammadam Kaipad, Cherukunnu, Kannur, Early March 2011

I revisited the old rented house that my family occupied during the early 1980s in Odayammadam near Cherukunnu in Kannur on March 5, 2011.

Cultivation near Kaipad wetlands near Odayamadam, Kannur

I began my journey down the memory lane from Kasaragod on bike and reached Pallychal, the bus stop for Odayammadam only in the afternoon riding continuously for more than 100 km in a go.

Kaipad wetland and the laterite hills around

After a short stroll around the old house, school and temple ground and after taking a few snaps of the temple pond in which I learned swimming I went straight to the ancient Pulayarkottam or the shrine of the Pulayas towards the west on the banks of the unique wetland ecosystem called Kaipad in Kannur.

Upside down: Incredible flight formations of MH at Kaipad, Kannur, March 2011

Here once I watched Pottan, Gulikan, Chamundi and Valiyambrati Theyyams as a child; at the edge of the wetland called Kaipad which is actually a backwater like formation of river Kuppam connected to Pazhayangadi estuarine ecosystem.

A breeding adult male Marsh Harrier winterig in Kaipad, Cherukunnu, Kannur, March 2011

As I am revisiting the place after almost three decades I could see the changes in natural and cultural ecology. The Kaipad was traditionally used as cultivating land for paddy. But now Odayammadam Kaipad is not cultivated and is engulfed by wild grass. Navigation, shrimp culture and wetland birds have also diminished.

Pulayarkottam shrine at the edge of Kaipad wetland, Odayammadam, Kannur

A local crab-hunter told me that even crustaceans have shrunk in the wetland. I could see a few Common and Spotted Sandpipers here and there. To my delight a Eurasian Marsh Harrier appeared from behind the mangroves.

Undulating and amzing in flight: Marsh Harrier at Kannur Kaipad wetland, March 2011

It displayed its undulating flight formations skimming the canopies of tall mangroves in the Kaipad. This hunter of the air is wintering in Malabar miles away from his European or North African home.

The beauty of Kaipad wetland, Kannur

I was happy to see this swift and agile bird of prey which was a breeding adult male in its prime. After a few hours in the wetland I started my return journey to Kasaragod on bike.

Awsome flight of Marsh Harrier above the mangroves of Kaipad wetland, Kannur

In between I also climbed up the laterite hillocks rising from the sea level wetlands and admired the breathtaking view of Kaipad and surrounding backwaters of Kuppam river from atop in the yellow light of evening.

Aerial view of Kaipad from atop the hill

As a boy it was a real passion to get to the top of these hillocks and watch the widening wetlands, the horizon and the blue line of the sea to the west, especially at dusk when it turns golden.

Pierrot on the hillside

I often escaped to the hills as I escaped to the Theyyams and drums at night, slipping and scooting away from home under the cover of darkness. But it was getting darker and I had to ride the 100 km back to Kasaragod and do nothing but to pull the throttle.

Odayamadam temple pond, Pallychal, Kannur. The gate of our old rented house towards right

Odayamadam primary school near temple. Green room of Theyyam towards right

Pipals still before the temple in Odayamadam

Thara junction, Cherukunnu, Kannur

Wild blossoms on the hillock near Kaipad wetland, Kannur

Whiskered Tern in flight above Kaipad

Spotted or Wood Sandpiper in Kannur Kaipad wetland

Summer vegetable cultivation in paddy fields, Odayamadam,Kannur

Mangrove blossoms in Kannur Kaipad wetland

Trekking the Tiger Trail in Thekady

Ajay — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 20:01:45 +0000

Forests, grasslands and mountains around Periyar lake, Thekady near Kumaly

Periyar Tiger Reserve (PTR) in the Kerala region of the Western Ghats is approachable from Thekady near Kumaly in Iduki district. The artificial lake formed by the Mullaperiyar dam makes it an ethereal paradise with surrounding evergreen forests and grasslands. Rivers Mullayar and Periyar join hands to form this high altitude lake situated well above 800m.

A Mannan tribal hut built by the guides near landing in Thekady

Wild boars near the lake

Boating in the lake offers a spectacular view of the flora and fauna. Trekking inside the surrounding forests are also an intimate way to explore this unique wildlife sanctuary at the border of Kerala and Tamilnadu. Plenty of trails and guides are available now with the Eco Development Committees.

Sky and lake blues in Thekady

Jungle Babbler in Thekady

Adv. Sureshbabu Thomas invited me for a brief expedition inside the PTR forests and we reached Kumaly on 21 April 2011 by night. We stayed at the Ambady Hotel run by his nephew and the next morning forest guide Rajkumar took us to the forest. Adv. Suraj was also with us.

Across the lake on bamboo raft: Adv. Sureshbabu Thomas leading the expedition

All arrangements were done by our host Tintu and he also provided us with those precious pairs of leech socks that are essential for trekking inside the reserve as summer showers are a daily phenomenon now in high range.

Stream Glory sailing on the bamboo raft in Periyar lake

From the boat landing we went left to cross the lake on a bamboo raft and then entered the trek path along the edge of the water.

Ambady designed by Laury Baker in Kumaly

A wild boar came against us with its threatening teeth. It avoided confrontation and fortunately kept a distance from us as it crossed us.

Wild Boar encounter in Thekady

Red-wattled Lapwings and Great and Little Cormorants are plenty along the lake. Pied and White-throated Kingfishers are also plenty in the lake. On hearing a heavy wing beat like a chopper our guide Rajkumar quickly led us to a huge tree by the lake and we saw two Great Hornbills flying away from the gigantic tree. I remembered seeing the Great Hornbills crossing the lake while on a boat journey in the lake a few years back.

Grasslands and evergreen forests around Periyar lake

Woolly-necked Stork and Median Egrets in Periyar lake

We heard the calls of Scimitar Babblers all around the forests in the morning. We could see several Median Egrets and a Woolly-necked Stork near a shallow stretch of the lake. Paddy field Pipits are also seen here. Chestnut-headed Beeeaters are abundant.

A moth in PTR, Thekady

Little Spider Hunters and Purple Sunbirds are also common. We could see a Honey Buzzard passing and a Crested Serpent Eagle resting on a tall bare branch.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch in PTR

Chestnut-headed Beeeater in PTR, 22 Apl 2011

A few miles away from the landing towards east we saw fresh pug marks of the tiger. It was just a few hours old as it was evident from the rain drenched soil according to Rajkumar who hails from the indigenous Mannan tribe. He is also aware of all the birds, mammals, butterflies and plants. He also showed us some wild orchids with flowers.

Borwn-capped Pygmy Woodpecker in PTR, Thekady

We could also find the droppings of Porcupine, Sloth Bear, Jungle cats and wild dogs.We also saw the presence of an elephant herd through their fresh dung in the grass near water and heard the sound of reeds being broken by the pachyderms inside the thick jungle. While waiting for the giants we could see a Stripe-necked Mongoose with its striking chestnut color against the green of the grass.

Tiger pug marks in PTR, Thekady

Rajkumar showed us some Malabar Parkeets, Plum-headed Parakeets and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches. He also showed us a few Brwon-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers so close.

Common Flameback Woodpecker in PTR

Then we entered the thick evergreen forest and thanks to the leech socks given by Tintu we were saved from the attacking vampires from all sides craving for our blood.

Pipit in Elaphant dung in PTR

We could see plenty of Malabar Grey Hornbills and Malabar Trogons inside the forest. Out learned guide made me notice the call of Trogons. Plenty of Red Helen butterflies are seen inside the semi evergreen patches. Tamil Yeomans,

Four Ring butterfly in PTR, Thekady

Common Castors, Grass Yellows, Southern Rustic etc. are also common. Though he searched for Frogmouths we could not find them. They are also plenty in the evergreen shelters in PTR but locating them is tricky because of their perfect camouflage.

Rajkumar helping Suraj to get rid of leeches

Stripe-necked Mongoose in PTR, Thekady

Towards the end of the trail we saw plenty of Neelgiri Langurs and Bonnet Macaques. A single Common Map butterfly and Forest and Stream Glory damselflies also appeared before us. It took a few hours to get back to the landing.

People from all over the world in PTR, Thekady. Note the leech socks on

Wild orchid blossom in PTR, Thekady

We rested in the room for a few hours after lunch and returned to Kottayam by evening. The summer showers this year have been a blessing so far in Kottayam and Iduki districts but it is harming farmers in Kuttanad.

The return: Adv. Suraj pulling the raft-rope

Tamil Yeoman in PTR

Sailing Inland in Kerala: Alapuzha – Kollam Backwater Cruise

Ajay — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 09:22:45 +0000

Venice of Kerala: Entering Alapuzha/Aleppey boat-landing in early morning

Vembanad lake separating Alapuzha and Kottayam

A rejuvenating voyage through the moving and soothing green and blue ecology of south Kerala is really cool and refreshing in summer. A cruise that connects Vembanad, Kayamkulam and Ashtamudy backwater lakes and inland canals and rivers is a dynamic dream venture materialized on a daily basis by Kerala State Water Transport Corporation that operates daily backwater tours between Alapuzha (Alepey) and Kollam (Quilon).

House-boats in Punnamada Kayal, Alapuzha

The boats leave both jetties at 10.30 am simultaneously and reache the destinations at 6. 20 pm. Almost eight hours of serene pleasure and peace are offered to the tourists for INR 300. This longest boat trip in Kerala was revived a year back by SWTC and is a great success today.

Alleppey backwaters: Punnamada stretch in Vembanad Kayal

In the olden days it took only 10 Rupees to cover this 85km ride. There is no rush and no queue, only the really interested and patient cool customers are takers here. So a full day of calm relaxation and cozy leisure are guaranteed for the careful, imaginative and visually inclined sailor.

Cooling and refreshing in summer:Backwater cruise in Vembanad lake

Greenery surrounding the waterways of Kuttanad

On Tuesday April 19, 2011 I enjoyed this cozy cruise, boarding from Alepey the Venice of the east with its network of canals and inland waterways. I began my journey from Kottayam my home.

People admiring views on Kottayam-Alapuzha SWTC boat service

I caught the State boat from Kodimatha jetty at 6.40 in the morning.It is only 10 bugs to Alapuzha and took two and a half hours to reach the ancient port city. The early morning boating that crosses Vembanad lake is breathtaking and delighful. The boat reached Alapuzha jetty at 9.15 am.

Saga of human labor amidst the bounty of nature: Water-scapes of Vembanad inspiring imagination

After having breakfast from Alapuzha I just dropped in DTPC information counter close to the landing and got some maps and leaflets on backwater boating and Alepey tourism. Then took the ticket from the office at the jetty and entered the white cruiser awaiting sailors.

Blue and green of backwaters: Kayaking in Vembanad

It has a lower and upper deck. Even the upper deck is roofed and got some 20 fixed seats. It gives a surround view and foreigners prefer it. The lower deck has 60 pushed back seats and is a lot cooler than the upper. The cruiser also has a toilet.

Pagoda enshrining Karumadi Kuttan: 10th c. granite Buddha partially demolished at Karumadi near Thakazhi and Ambalapuzha

The boat entered Punnamada Kayal and then turned south in to the National Waterway to Kollam. It passed through green paddy fields, coconut groves, banana and yam cultivating lands to reach Karumadi near Ambalapuzha and Thakazhi south of Alapuzha.

Alapuzha-Kollam cruiser anchored near Thotapally for a break

The historic Karumadi Kuttan or the ancient 10th century black granite Buddha is recovered from mud and installed here in a small pagoda consecrated by the Dalai Lama. This beautiful life size dark Buddha in sitting posture in Padmasana resembling the Mavelikara Buddha was partially demolished in the Brahmanical conquest of Kerala.

Pleasure cruises and fishing boats in Vembanad

Brahmanic Hinduism was violently established by its Sudra henchmen in 8 to 10th centuries under the Brahmanical ideologues of Sankara and Vramilabhata by persecuting the Sramana ethical cultures of Jainism and Buddhism in Kerala that spread letters and ethics among people in BC 4th century itself.

Kumarakodi on river Pallana: Asan met his death by water here in Redeemer boat tragedy in 1924

Kuttanad got its name originally as the land of Kuttan or Buddhan of Karumadi. The medicinal practices of Thakazhi or Thiruvizha temples nearby are also reminiscent of the ethical health care and educational practices of Buddhism that was a missionary and charity religion in south India that was disseminated by the monks sent by Asoka.

Thotapally spillway close to Arabian sea, NH47on it

From there our cruiser moved slowly south to Thotapally a small lake and spill way into Arabian sea. NH 47 passes through this barrage-bridge. The excess water in the Vembanad lake spills over to the sea through this barrage in monsoon.

Kumarakodi Asan memorial: Like a Sramana temple by a bend in the river Pallana

The place name Thotapally means a garden shrine of Buddhism. The Pali word pally means Jain or Buddhist sacred shrines. The same word pally is still used by all non-Hindu minority religions in south India to refer to their worshiping places like Jews, Christians and Muslims apart from Jains and Buddhists.

A blue damselfly at Kumarakodi on river Pallana

From Thotapally we moved further south to Kumarakodi on river Pallana where Kumaran Asan the renowned poet in Malayalam in early 20th century was drowned in a boat capsize in 1924 while returning to Kollam from Alapuzha on a steam boat called Redeemer.

Lagoons and green groves near Kumarakodi

The monument, library, statue and school erected in his memory who fought for social justice and human rights through letters form a beautiful and meaningful sight by a bend in the river. I remember visiting the place with artist Wilfred Polycarp in 2006 on bike from Alapuzha his home. That day we crossed Valiazhikal ferry on a country boat with my old hundred CC bike and went up to Thangasery beach in Kollam and returned.

Intimate experience: Inland navigation in canals

From Kumarakodi the cruiser swiftly progressed to Trikunapuzha after passing through the water lock locally known as Trikunapuzha Cheep. Trikunapuzha was also a Buddhist centre called Srimulavasam the southern seat of the Buddha renowned all over India and Asia in the verse “Dakshinapadhe mulavase lokanadha…” Historians also mark Thrimullavaram a southern beach in coastal Kollam just north of Thangasery as another likely location for this lost city of the Buddha in the southern west coast.

Touching land for lunch at Trikunapuzha (near the lost Buddhist city of Srimulavasam)

Popular respect for history: A fishing boat named Buddha at Trikunapuzha or ancient Buddhist center of Srimulavasam

The old Sastha (Dharma Sastha is a synonym for the Buddha in Malayalam) temple in current Trikunapuzha could be a Hinduized relic of the ancient Buddhist pally or vihara. Probably it was also taken over by the Brahmanical Hindu henchmen and Sudra militia during the same time around 10th century when they demolished and threw away Karumadi Kuttan and Mavelikara Buddha.

Trikunapuzha resort like a Chaitya home of Buddhism

Similar Buddha images and idols were also recovered from Mavelikara, Karunagapally, Adoor, Pallikal, Bharanikavu and so on. The present Hindu temples at Nilamperur and Kiliroor near Kottayam also housed Buddha idols that were later removed by Savarna forces.

Managing different levels of water: Water lock near Trikunapuzha

Anyway it is evidently clear that Buddhism flourished in the land of Kuttan or Buddhan called Kuttanad and its margins in various current districts like Ernakulam, Kottayam, Alapuzha, Pathanamthitta and Kollam well into the 13th or 14th century. And it took a lot of persecution and bloodshed from the part of the Sudra henchmen of Brahmanism to eradicate it through extreme violence and barbarism.

No not a Buddha Peacock, just a Grey Pansy at Srimulavasam now known as Trikunapuzha

The mutilated idols at Karumadi or Kallil near Perumabavur (Kallil was originally a Jain temple, now Hindu) are concrete living proof of such Sudra savagery that tried to erase, obliterate and mutilate people and their histories under the dogmatic spell of Brahmanism.

Passing through the lock near Srimulavasam

Entering Kayamkulam Kayal, Thermal power plant in backdrop, a scary presence amidst the lake blues

After enjoying lunch in a cozy coconut palm grove island near the ancient site of Srimulavasam in Trikunapuzha we moved further south to enter Kayamkulam Kayal. It is also vital to remember that Aratupuzha Velayudha Panikar an ardent fighter for social justice who questioned Brahmanical Savarna hegemony in 19th century lived and fought the Savarna henchmen near the Kayamkulam Kayal in Aratupuzha.

Collectivity in fishing culture: Fish workers in Cheriazheekal

He was murdered by an assassin sent by the Savarna lords while in deep sleep in his Kettu Vallam or traditional boat in the Kayal at night. Like Asan, Aratupuzha Velayudha Panikar also met his watery grave while dreaming in sleep for an egalitarian and humane future for Kerala and the world.

A Kettu Vallam/Kevuvanchi modified as a house boat for tourist cruises

Let me pay heartfelt homage to these early martyrs who advanced the cultural politics for egalitarian, democratic and human change in Kerala which was reduced to a mental asylum by the agents of caste and Brahmanism from the middle ages to mid twentieth century.

Kite and Egret on Chinese fishing net in Kayamkulam lake

The subaltern struggles and rebellions at the wake of colonialism recaptured the lost ethical culture of Kerala and created the Kerala modernity and Keala model of social standards of high literacy and public participation in democracy and governance.

Historic nets: Chinese fishing nets in Kayamkulam Kayal along National Waterway for miles

Crossing this backwater lake to the south we reached Azhikal estuary and fishing harbor. We could see a lot of fishing folks the brave Dheevara and Araya people of Kerala who conserved the challenging coastline of Kerala for thousands of years, new and old fishing vessels, fresh sea catch, busy fish markets and fish landings here as the cruiser smoothly passed them.

Fishing vessels and new bridge at Cheriyazhikal

A lot of bridges and roads have come up here recently after the Tsunami rehabilitation projects by the state and NGOs. It is also vital to remember that Valiazhikal Aandi Arayan (Arachan means the ruler) was supreme commander in the Ambalapuzha native state and the army also had an Ezhava regiment for centuries.

Sailing yacht in Kayamkulam Kayal close to Aratupuzha

The Coir cottage industries around Kayamkulam lake are also remarkable in processing the precious natural fiber of Kerala to makes the most powerful ropes in the world from ancient times onwards. The working culture of the people at the bottom are distinctly visible in and around the water bodies of Kerala. Their hard labor makes the coasts and wetlands of Kerala live and productive.

Through Valiazhikal and Cheriazhikal we reached Vallikavu the seat of Mata Amritanandamayi or Amma a popular woman spiritual leader who emerged from the humble fishing folks of Kerala. The foot bridge over the National Waterway and the skyscrapers of Amma are astounding among the greenery and Chinese fishing nests of the canal.

Kollam-Alapuzha cruiser crossing us in Kayamkulam Kayal

The Chinese fishing nests in Kuttanad that are spread through out Kochi and Travancore coast are also lasting influences of Chinese and other south Asian cultures and the lasting imprints of Kerala’s historic interactions with other parts of Asia, especially the Buddhist Asia.

Amrutapuri, Vallikavu south of Valiazhikal

Some of our fellow travelers from Europe alighted at the jetty of Vallikavu to see Amma. A few miles south of Amma’s coastal spiritual abode we again touched land at Alumkadavu in a charmingly designed boathouse like KTDC resaturant for spice tea at around 4.30 pm.

Tea at Alumkadavu boathouse cafe

Then passing through the narrow canal at Chavara we saw Kerala Minerals and Metals that is digging up sand and naturally we were skeptical about the environmental impacts of large scale mining in fragile coastal belts. Plastic waste is another hazard in the narrow canals. The water quality at Kollam and Alapuzha jetties are also poor. The stench discourages the visitors.

Monstrous and scary: Kayamkulam thermal plant

The sight of the huge pipes of Kayamkulam thermal power plant was also not so delightful as we are fighting nuclear and thermal big plants after the Chernobil and Japan disasters. The sight of these monstrous constructions near water is scary and alarming in the futuristic sense.

Sunset in Ashtamudy Kayal: Climax of our cruise

From the canal we entered lake Ashtamudy and the entry was dramatic and spectacular. We were spell bound by the vast expanse of gray blue waters on all sides and the tiny little green islands in the lake. Small fishing boats and whiskered terns and kites are plenty in the lake. The sunset-cruise in Ashtamudy was the climax of our eight hour long siling and we saw Kollam from miles afar. The new jetty, park, KTDC Tamarind Hotel and bus terminal at Kollam offer remarkable sights from the lake.

Land at last: Kollam from Ashtamudy lake

We landed at Kollam at around 6.10 pm. KSRTC bus terminal is close by and railway station is just a kilometer away. I took an auto to the railway station and caught Vanchinad Express back to Kottayam at 6.50 pm. I reached home in Gandhinagar at around 9.30 at night.

Vanchinad arriving at Kollam Railway Junction

It was really refreshing and enlightening a day for me in which I spent almost 12 hours on boat. It was a great voyage through the present and past, through the unique wetland ecology, daily struggles of the people and cultural geography of south Kerala. Water and water-scapes could also illuminate us in various ways.

Inviting and illuminating water-scapes of Kerala