Ajaysekher.net » Culture and Ecology

Black-winged Stilts of Vypin Mangroves

Ajay — Fri, 28 May 2010 11:19:48 +0000

Black-winged Stilt: A solitary reaper in the ruined Mangroves

The lush green mangroves of Cochin, especially the green belt around the north coast at the mouth of the harbor and the lagoons and archipelago formations in the backwaters that run up to Mangalavanam have remained as the lungs and kidneys of this unique estuary and ecosystem that is also called the queen of Arabian Sea.

Indian Pitta in Mangalavanam Mangroves

A Red Crab in the Mangroves at Mangalavanam

This green cover protected the land and its people for hundreds of years from tidal waves and Tsunamis. The crabs, shrimps, lobsters and prawn provided the people with healthy delicacies. The mangroves are the breeding grounds of fish and a range of marine life.

Mangrove Blossoms in Vypin

Even after large scale destruction done for reclamation and urbanization in the city suburbs the Mangroves of Vypin island that forms the northern coast of the estuary has been giving shelter and asylum to marine biodiversity and endangered species that were pushed to the very periphery by development.

A Fiddler Crab among Mangrove flowers

Unfortunately the recent LNG and Petroleum tanks and terminals built at the heartland of the mangrove ecosystem in Vypin has destroyed the vegetation in a mass scale.

Country-boats and Chinese fishing nets of Vypin

I visited the location with P S Devarajan, an independent activist from Vypin in mid May 2010. Big roads and mud filled reclamations and huge tanks and buildings including gigantic compound walls are chocking this fragile habitat.

Beckoning Lagoons: P S Devarajan leading the voyage

It is home to many varieties of mangroves and associated flora and fauna. Devarajan who is born and brought up near this green paradise remembers his childhood expeditions and sojourns into the shaded mystery and bounty of the mangroves.

Degree of Damage: Hectares of Mangroves slashed and burned down for LNG terminals

He narrates bird and animal encounters in the past. We surveyed the backwaters near the mouth of the estuary on a country-boat provided by local children and found many species of fish and crustaceans. We could also see a few otters that were plenty in the past according to the kids who lead us.

Mouth of Kochi Estuary:View from southern tip of Vypin

Apart from a few Egrets and Cormorants, birds were virtually absent in the mangrove relics. As we were leaving the devastated landscape in disgust a flight of birds suddenly landed down out of the blue. The long held back pinkish legs revealed their true identity. It was a small flock of Black-winged Stilts. They were desperately seeking some food in the ruins of the mangrove lagoons.

Stilt with its pinkish long legs at Vypin

A Red Crab among the breething roots of Mangroves

Green-winged Stilts: Mangroves of Kochi

Devastated Mangrove Heartland for LNG Terminal

New Beginning: Mangrove Sapling

Green Imperial Pigeon of Chinnar

Ajay — Wed, 19 May 2010 18:02:40 +0000

The thorny scrub of Chinnar is a unique habitat at the eastern margin of Kerala. It houses the relics of stone age rock art and cave paintings. The dry deciduous and thorny jungles of this eastern slope of the Western Ghats form a rain shadow country. It nurtures the sandalwood forests of Marayur and the Grizzled Giant Squirrels, Star Tortoise, Tufted Grey Langurs and much much more… The mystery of Pambar and Chinnar rivers includes big mammals like Elephant, Gaur, Spotted Deer, Sambar Deer and a variety of birds and butterflies.

Spectacular Landscape of Chinnar

I visited this unique valley encircled by Eravikulam National Park on the west and south, Indira Gandhi WLS on the north and Kodaikanal forests on the east with an artist friend Jain in the first week of May 2010. We saw plenty of Spotted Doves and Tufted Grey Langurs. The landscape of the dry valley was breathtaking. The dry jungles of Chinnar lie at an average elevation of 600-500 meters MSL. From Munnar we can reach hear by driving down north east some 50 km through Marayur.

A Peafowl Pair in Chinnar

Blue Moutains and Green Jungle in Chinnar

The blue mountains in the background and the lemon green forests in the foreground formed a spectacular and highly soothing view. We saw peafowls in the dry grass. Spotted deers ran past us as we entered the thorny bush. A tribal forest watcher told us that it is also home to the endangered Mugger crocodiles which are rare in South India. There are dormitory, rooms, tree huts and log huts by the Forest Department for travelers.

Tufted Grey Langur in Chinnar WLS

We entered the Tamil Nadu side and drove through Indira Gandhi WLS towards Udumalpet for a few miles to see a herd of wild elephants calmly grazing by the highway. A mother and calf were enjoying their time together without much concern about the onlookers. I could go up to 70 meters near them. A forest guard was there to check the people.

Mother and Calf: A Close Elephant Encounter in IGWLS

While returning from this wonderfully and unbelievably close elephant encounter, before entering Kerala I noticed a big pale pigeon on a wild fruit tree. Stopping the vehicle I approached the tree with my camera and found a splendid Green Imperial Pigeon in its sheer beauty and grace. Its glorious green wings and whitish underparts and head were visible in the dying light of the Chinnar sun. I could also hear the yearning call of this pretty pigeon that animated and resonated the whole landscape and sunset at Chinnar.

Green Imperial Pigeon in Chinnar

Thorny Scrub of Chinnar

Thuvanam Falls inside Chinnar WLS

GRAY TUFTED LANGUR FEASTING ON A TREE

GREEN I PIGEON ON A FRUIT TREE

SUNSET AT CHINNAR

SURREAL LANDSCAPE IN TWILIGHT

Cholayar: Tributes to a River

Ajay — Mon, 17 May 2010 08:51:10 +0000

Cholayar or Chalakudy Puzha as it is known downstream is one of the largest rivers in central Kerala. It originates from Anamalais and Nelliampathy slopes in the Western Ghats and joins Arabian Sea after merging with the waters of Periyar near Paravur. It is world famous for its waterfalls at Athirappally, Vazhachal and Charpa.

Green Glory: Athirappally Falls in Cholayar

The river also hosts the relic patches of unique riparian low-lying forests, extremely rare in Kerala. It is home to four species of horn-bills: Malabar Grey, Indian Grey, Malabar Pied and Great Indian Horn-bills. The fish diversity (more than 100 species) of the river and the bird diversity (more than 200 species) of the adjacent riparian forests are amazing. It is the last resort of an ancient tribe called Kadar who live by the river at Vazhachal range. The riverside ancient route to Valparai and Pollachi connected Kerala with the Tamil country for centuries.

Cholayar at Athirappally

The thickly forested islands in the river are also home to rare and endangered flora and fauna. The Cholayar basin is also part of an elephant corridor stretching from Parambikulam to Puyamkutty. Large mammals like Gaur, deer (Sambhar, Barking and Mouse deers) leopard and tiger are also abundant here. The human-leopard conflict is a serious menace in Malakapara.

Riparian and Islet forests of Cholayar

In the last week of April 2010 I visited the banks of Cholayar with Adv. Sureshbabu Thomas. We stayed at Athirappally near the river. We explored upstream up to Sholayar reservoir near Malakapara bordering Tamil Nadu en-rout to Valparai. In the oil palm plantation below the Athirappally waterfalls my friend spotted a spotted dear and calf.

Spotted Deer and calf in Oilpalm plantation at Athirappally

This was an alarming surprise for us as the western slopes of Western Ghats are not known for this species which is abundant in the eastern and dry slopes like Parambikulam. It could be an indication of changing climatic and vegetation patterns. We saw plenty of Malabar Grey Horn-bills on the way as well. Giant Squirrels and butterflies are quite common in the riverine vegetation and sparkling glades. This unique biodiversity hot spot is also under increasing threat from big dam projects that would eventually maroon this invaluable gift of nature.

Malabar Grey Horn-bill in Vazhachal forest

Malabar Giant Squirrel in Vazhachal

Blue Mormon and Blue Bottles

First Malayalam Book on Cultural Politics in Kerala

Ajay — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:23:47 +0000

My first book in Malayalam happens to be the first book in my mother tongue dealing directly with the politics of culture in Kerala. Samskaram, Prathinidhanam, Prathirodham: Samskara Rashtreeyathilekkulla Kurippukal (Culture, Representation, Resistance: Notes Towards Cultural Politics) is on the politics of writing, film and various forms of culture.

Notes towards Cultural Politics (Malayalam)

There are a few books on cultural studies and cultural criticism in Malayalam but there is hardly any title dealing directly with contesting sights of culture. There is a broad notion that cultural studies is cultural politics itself. But the real locations of struggle and fight within the realm of culture/s are always invisible and intangible in the ‘balanced’ academic analyses. The ethical and political questions of exclusion and democracy are often sidelined as something that are outside literature and culture. So even cultural studies is exclusionary, elitist and hegemonic in Malayalam literary culture.

The counter hegemonic and radical subversive acts against dominant and elitist culture are carried forward by little but deviant epistemological practices. Challenging and continuously destabilizing and rewriting existing notions of culture, polity and society are part of the democratic cultural politics. Expressing and marking the difference of historical and social experience and the politics of subject formation are also part of this practice in a society where slavery and extreme forms of brutal marginalization were practiced for many millenniums.

Cultural elitist discourses, transcendental mysticism or dogmas, hegemonic notions or practices of culture are rejected and critiqued. The themes varies from literature to film and music to pop culture. The work is a collection of critical essays and notes written and published in leading journals in Malayalam like Bhashaposhini, Mathrubhumy, Madhyamam, Kalakaumudi, Pachakuthira, Suchakam etc in the last decade. It is divided into two parts. The first part includes essays on literature and the second part includes essays dealing with pop film, music, art and visual culture. The book also contains a foreword by Prof. P P Raveendran. It is published by Fabian Books, Mavelikara (90INR).

Kerala and Karnataka: Historical and Cultural Linkages

Ajay — Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:52:39 +0000

Sravanabelgola: The pool between two hills

Icon of Indian Visual Culture: Imposing Nudity of Gomateswara

In the first week of April 2010, I was in Karnataka. Southern Karnataka has historical connections with Kerala from pre-historic ages onwards. The Sramana culture of Buddhism and Jainism came to Northern and central Kerala through Karnataka. I visited Sravanabelgola which has been the centre of Jain culture from BC third century onwards. The very place name suggests the Vella Kulam of the Sramanas or the white pool of the Jain Munis. In Sravanabelgola a large granite stepped pool with four carved gateways separates two hillocks. Both are rich with history and cultural memory.

Temple atop Vindhya Giri above the carved steps

Emperor Chandra Gupta Maurya along with his Jain guru Bhadra Bahu migrated down south to this beautiful hillock now called Chandra Giri, after him and spent his last days here in ascetic renunciation. The temple complex built in their memory still adorn the top of this hill after a series of renovations by various dynasties across millenniums. Beneath the hill there is an ancient tank that is full even in summer.

On the neighbouring hill called Vindhya Giri stands the colossal monolith of Bahubali, the first Thirthankara of Jainism. This 58 feet monolith is one of the tallest ones in the world. It was carved by Aristanami, the renowed South Indian sculptor in the mid tenth century under the decree of Chamunda Raya, the Ganga king. With the stark stone-nakedness, the calm and open posture, being one with nature with all the creepers, snakes and ants and anthills around him and at his feet the one and only Gomateswara statue represents the pinnacle of Indian visual culture and philosophy.

Gaja Lakshmi relif above the entrance, originally Jain

Cow and Calf: Relief on Pillor

The unique temple around this beautiful and eco-aesthetically harmonious gray-granite monolith houses the exquisitely carved smaller sculptures in granite and schist of all the other 24 thirthankara’s and Jain sub-deities. Gaja Lakshmi, Yaksha/Yakshini, Saraswati, Ganesh… to name a few. All most all these sub-deities and motifs of Jain sculpture and architecture are now being Hinduized in various temples across South India after the Brahmanical internal invasion that gained cultural hegemony by the 12th and 14th century through royal usurpation and patronage.

The granite reliefs and carvings on the pillors and side walls are

Meditation in Stone: Gomateswara or Bahubali in Sravanabelgola

Dancing woman/Apsara on the pillor

amazing and enchanting. The images of men, women, and animals are evocatively animate and thrillingly dynamic. There are also images of abstract forms and ideas like the music generated by a string instrument depicted in intricate carved patterns in stone. The woman playing the Vina could be none other than the goddess of music. Thee are monochrome murals depicting elephants, horses and bulls. The rough semi carvings on the outer granite wall embellish with images of twin fish, snakes, apes, wrestlers, contortionists etc. A visit to this ancient cultural center reveals the fact that it is the true center of South Indian temple architecture, murals and iconography.

Murals: Horse and Elephant, Jain Mudras

The striking northward facing Gomateswara or Bahubali in his gray-granite nudity atop the Vindhya Giri hillock is visible from miles afar as we approach and leave Sravanabelgola from Bangalore or Mangalore. It is 150 km west of Bangalore on NH 48. Other Jain centers like Karkala and Venur are also nearby.

Music in Stone: Woman playing Vina

Searching a Bird in Anamalais: Remapping Pampadumpara

Ajay — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 13:51:17 +0000

Exploring Beyond Iravikulam in a Sole Search

Sholas of Western Ghats

I was part of a unique eco expedition in the high mountains of Rajamala near Munnar during February 4 to 7, 2010. My friend and former colleague Dr Dilip K G of S S University, Kalady invited me for a key inquiry in the shola grass lands north of Rajamala gap beyond Pettimudi. It was a specific search for a single species!

Bio-diversity Hot Spots High up in the Western Ghats

This unique grassland shola and mixed wet evergreen forest are home to various endangered Western Ghats endemic flora and fauna. Our

Nilgiri Tahr in Iravikulam National Park

expedition happened at a critical juncture when the Munnar land issue was turbulent in the media and in the politics of the state.

The expedition was in search of a single species: Nilgiri Laughing Thrush, which is common in the Nilgiri mountains north of Palghat pass. It was organized jointly by Kerala Forest Department and Cochin Natural History Soceity lead by Dr Dilip and Vishnupriyan Kartha.

The Elusive Bird: Nilgiri Laughing Thrush in the Anamalais?

Nilgiri Laughing Thrush, Dodabeta peak, Ooty'o9

In the recently concluded Mankulam Bird Survey 2010, Dr Dilip chanced to see a bird resembling the Nilgiri Laughing Thrush in this purticular location called Pampadumpara, a few miles north west of Rajamala gap and Pettimudi. The exact location of sighting is called Mappatham at an elevation of 1430 meters.

Though Grey-breasted Laughing Thrush and Wayanad L T are found in the Anamalis and Sahyadri mountains south of the Palghat pass, the sighting of the Nilgiri L T is a rare record, yet to be confirmed. The dialogues between Dr Dilip and DFO Induchudan proved successful and the re-survey was materialized.

At home in forest: CNHS team

All Set for the Search: The Team CNHS

I joined the team at Munnar by the afternoon of 4th February, 2010. Apart from Dr Dilip and me Vishnupriyan Kartha, Jinu George, Adv. Jay

Breath taking: A View from Pampadumpara top

and Jijo were part of the team. Forest guard Babu accompanied us through out and forest watchers Indran and

Grassland sholas, Iravikulam National Park

company played our hosts in the forest.

After having lunch in Munnar we started our journey on jeep. At the Iravikulam National Park we took a small break to see a few mountain ungulates, the endangered Nilgiri Tahr. We also saw a few Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes near the Story of the park. A few Pacific Swallows were also flying around.

Crossing Rajamala Gap, the Jeep Journey to the Edge: Feb. 4, 2010

Then we resumed our journey to Pettimudi beyond the Rajamala gap. The gap is at an elevation of almost 2000 m. stated the altimeter in my Timex Expedition WS4. From there we had a great view of the whole park with pinnacles like Naykoli and Umaya Mala in the backdrop. Anamudi the highest peak in South India at an elevation of around 2600 m. is not visible from here, though it towers nearby.

Crossing the gap we descended down to the Nyamakad and then Pettimudi estates owned by the Tatas. The road to Idamala Kudi, a tribal settlement of the Muduvan tribe, divereged again to the high grasslands from Pettimudi estate junction.

The Long Trek to the Location: Pampadumpara

Turning left from here we reached the border of the Pettimudi estate and began our long trek to Pampadumpara further north west in the mixed evergreen and shola grassland forest. We saw plenty of Pied Bush Chats in the tea gardens. In the forest Scimitar Babblers were plenty with their

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Pampadumpara

distinct calls. We also saw many Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers. Vishnu was busy with his heavy Canon barrels. Above the rocky cliffs we observed a few Black Eagles as well.

Finally when we reached the camp site at Pampadumpara it was getting dark. The tribal forest watchers lead by the chief Indran Annan welcomed us and served us hot black coffee. The temperature was dropping with the sun Though there was an ancient natural rock-cave we opted to sleep outside in the open on the rock overlooking Mankulam valley as the cave was too small to host all of us together.

Sleeping in the Open near the Fire among the Ancient Folks

We spent the night on the rock near the fire at 1520 m. in altitude. Supper was served hot

The Whole team at day-break

near it and we relished the simple meals as lights began to emerge in the valley from the wild darkness further down west in Mankulam and Anakulam. The sounds of the wilderness resonated from all sides in the dark. The sky was an ocean of twinkling stars.

It was both scary and sensational. Our hosts the ancient Muduvan tribesmen had come all the way from Anakulam to set us camp. In the warmth of the fire Indran ”Annan” (the elder in ancient Tamil) narrated the story of his people and the plight of the Adivasis in the Western Ghats today.

Exploers in the jungle, Pampadum para

We also had heated debates on the Munnar land issue. As cold was engulfing everything, we slowly retreated into the safety of our warm sleeping bags. Though the night sky was starry the cold wind creeped into the sleeping bag through the airhole and pinched us with a vengeance too

Black Eagle flying high above Pampadumpara

often.

Day 1. Feb. 5, 2010. Hot Pursuit

We were awakened by the cold in the early morning. Temperature dropped down to a minimum of 10 degree C. After having coffee we began our birding transects. We formed three groups and explored the area in the morning light. I was with Dilip and we scanned the Mappatham ridge. We could see many Scimitar Babblers and Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes. We also saw Honey Buzzards above . Dilip chased the enigmatic birds for so long in the thick under growths, but was beguiled in the end. At noon we returned to the camp and had our belated brunch!

Indran Annan: Tribal Chief and Tracker

After a light nap our team mates found huge and fresh pug marks of a wild cat just a few meters from our camp in the damp soil. It was a tiger! He or she was around last night and a sudden tremor hit us like lightning! But we were equally excited to see the trace of the big cat!

Nilgiri Flycatcher, Pampadumpara

We repeated the transects in the afternoon and explored the wet evergreen forest patches and the riverine patches near the Pettimudi stream. I quenched my thirst and exhaustion with the cold and sweet water that comes all the way down from Pettimudi and beyond, the waters and rivulets of Anamudi also joins this stream says Annan our learned tracker.

Near the stream at around 1400 m. we heard the calls of mountain pigeons. We suddenly saw a flock of more than ten Mountain Imperial Pigeons flying away from us with their heavy wing beats. Their whitish underbelly and grey tail bar were visible. As we approched the tree a few more Nilgiri Wood Pigeons also flew away from us. We noticed the difference in calls and their appearance as well.

Day 2. Feb. 6, 2010. Still Hopeful:

The second day we changed our strategy and planned to flush the bird out in a joint mission. We reached Mappatham (literally means the terraced land of Sambhar Deer in Muduvan tribal etymology) early morning and hid ourselves in various strategic locations. Our attending staff also tried their best to flush some birds out of the thick undergrowth but they proved to be Grey-breasted ones and Scimitar Babblers, rather than the Nilgiri one.

But we saw a variety of birds in the meanwhile. Emerald Doves, Nilgiri Wood Pigeons, Black and Orange Flycatchers, Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers, Black-lored Tits, Mountain Hawk Eagles, Serpent Eagles and Black Eagles.

Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Mappatham, Pampadum Para

The Mountain Imperial Pigeon came to my hide out near a small stream and allowed me a generous and graceful photo session. It also came close to me up to two meters and drank water from the stream. A Paradise Flycatcher with long white tail streamers were also remarkable here. Butterflies like Colored Sergeant also came to visit me to pose before my Lumix FZ 28 for awhile.

In the afternoon we climbed up the peak of Pampadumpara in an exhausting adventure. We could see the northern stretches of Iravikulam plateau and even Valpara and Malakkapara, lying in the north from there. As evening approched it was raining raptors there. The peak rose well above 1750 m. in altitude. We saw plenty of Black Eagles, Booted Eagles, Common Buzzards and Honey Bussards there. My friends also noticed a falcon diving down after lingering mid air static for a few seconds.

The Retreat: Feb. 7, 2010

The next morning we repeated the transects but in vain. We saw plenty of other birds like the Nilgiri Flycatcher and Black and Orange Flycatchers. But our target bird was still elusive. By ten in the morning we began the return journey to Pettimudi estate through the dense jungle.

Tiger Pug Marks, Centre and Left. Gaur Hoof Mark, Right Bottom

The Trail of the Tiger

On the way we saw several tiger scats and the blood of a deer on pebbles and leaves caught by the tiger. The hunt happened just before our arrival at the spot. Though we could not see the bird that we were looking for we could identify the place as a hot spot of the tiger, a big one

Tiger scat on the trek-path

among the very few remaining in the Anamalais today.

At the edge of the forest we had a refreshing bath in the Pettimudi stream. The beautiful sandy shores and pebbles of the stream captivated us and we ignored the cold to delve deep into the flowing water. Some Blue Bottle and some unknown butterflies were mud puddling in the sandy shores. By the time we finished the bath our jeep arrived and sounded horn.

Trekking Down Rajamala: Grass Birds, Bush Quails and Pipits

At the Rajamala gap we alighted from the vehicle and trekked down to the Story of the park. We could see plenty of Nilgiri Pipits and a few Broad tailed grass birds, an Anamalai endemic. We saw plenty of Nilgiri Flycatchers and Pied Bushchats. At the story we again saw the Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes having their ridiculing laugh at us! We were fortunate to see the nesting of Pacific Swallows in the building.

Nilgiri Pipit, Rajamala N P

As we drove down to the main road we saw Nilgiri Langurs and a flock of Painted Bush Quails crossing and stopping by the road. A Grey Jungle Cock also crossed our path before we hit the highway to Munnar.

Grey Jungle Cock crossing

Pacific Swallow: Nesting

Buddhism in Kerala

Ajay — Sun, 03 Jan 2010 12:24:54 +0000

Buddha Sculpture at Mavelikara

The Buddha idols of Mavelikara and Karumadi in south Kerala are now well known all over the world. Today we see plenty of relics and ravages related to Buddhism and the Sramana tradition in Kerala scattered all over the state. Architectural and sculptural reminiscences are numerous apart from the vital linguistic and cultural imprints like the abundance of Pali (the ancient Buddhist Bahujan language) words in the present south Indian regional languages.

Karumady Kuttan: Half destroyed Buddha idol in Karumady near Ambalapuzha

The state is also known for the educational and health care achievements apart from its universal literacy. All these human development indicators are not just the product of 20th century evangelical Christian missionary activities and state welfare schemes but the lasting legacy of Buddhism, the democratic, egalitarian and inclusive way of living that shaped the cultural contours of Kerala from B C 3rd century to A D 13th century.

Nilamperur Pally temple: Converted to Hindu after Pallybana Perumal

Kerala is also known for its progressive left and democratic politics. This grass root level democracy and collective struggles of subaltern people are also a reminiscence of Buddhism that was the first missionary yet peaceful religion that welcomed women and outcastes to the mainstream community. The people or Bahujans who were defiant to Hindu Brahmanism after the destruction of Buddhism by Brahmanism were condemned as untouchable Chandals as outside the Brahmanic Hindu Chatur Varnayam after the devastation of Sramana tradition in Kerala. These Chandals or untouchable Buhujan masses were and still are the agents of Kerala social revolution or renaissance under the aegis of various radical social rebellions like the Narayana Guru movement, Ayyankali movement, Sahodara movement and various other progressive left and democratic processes in Kerala.

Buddhist Pagoda Shrine housing Karumady Kuttan, built by Dalai Lama

According to researchers, historians and thinkers like P C Alexander, P K Gopalakrishnan, Pavanan, Puthussery Ramachandran, Aju Narayanan etc. Buddhism was introduced in Kerala in the B C third century itself by the missionaries of emperor Asoka on their way down south to Sri Lanka which still is a Buddhist country. Jainism and Ajivaka philosophy also co-existed with Buddhism creating the great Sramana civilization of the South that has given birth to cultural classics like The Thirukural, Silapatikaram, Manimekhala and the whole canon of Sangham writing. The Buddhist, Jain and Ajivaka seers introduced the Brahmi script and the art of writing in South India. All the early inscriptions now available are written in Brahmi script in Tamil language. The ancient Tamilakam or Tamil country was a treasure house of Sramana heritage.

Almost all the current Savarna Hindu temples in Kerala now are modified Buddhist or Jain temples by coveted Brahmanism and its Padaja (Sudra or subservient Varna) forces. The brutal persecution of Buddhist monks/nuns and conversion of temples happened in seventh and eight centuries under the leadership of Sankara the furious advocate of Brahmanical propaganda and violence. He argued with other religious scholars, defeated them verbally and annihilated them and their religion forever. His brutal followers and henchmen also converted the seat of the defeated to that of Hindu Brahmanical temples with extended support from ruling classes.

He is also called Prachanna (pseudo) Buddha as he modified and disguised Buddha’s Sunyavada (rational theory) into the empire of the

A fake Buddha in Matanchery antique shop

Brahmanic self, the Advaita ‘theory’ that reiterated and enforced caste division and hierarchy with a peripheral and cunning shroud of unity that cheated the masses. Thirumulla Varam, Thottappally, Podiyil Mala, Sabarimala, Kodungallur, Thrissur, Kottakkal, Madappally and Bekal were world renowned Buddhist shrines of worship, learning, health care and nature conservation. In places like Mathilakam and Kiliroor there were even Buddhist and Jian universities and Research centres in Kerala in the early centuries of the first millennium that attracted intellectuals and students from all over the world.

Pally is still the most popular affix used along with place, plot and family names in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra. The Pali word Pally means a non Hindu/ Brahmanic place of worship. In the ancient times it denoted a Jain or Buddhist shrine. Buddhism guided culture and society in the south for more than a millennium. It was erased from Kerala through the barbaric and coveted Brahmanic invasion that happened from the fifth to eighth centuries under cruel and reckless royal patronage and usurpation with power.

Images and records of Buddhist persecution by the Brahmanic barbarians are still available in Kerala in the form of stone carved images, local subaltern orature and secret lore (Valath). The Hindu Brahmanic colonists burned the Pali canon and the sacred texts and knowledge systems of Buddhism in Kerala. These nomadic Aryans from the Vedic and Sanskritic clans of West and Central Asia introduced Sanskrit and Hindu religion in the South Indian Kingdoms. They found leverage in royal patronage through cunning usurpation and cheat. The legend of Onam and Maha Bali still articulates the historic deceit of Buddhist Bahujan culture by the Brahman dwarfs. Poets like Sahodaran Ayyappan has extensively written about the internal imperialism of Hindu Brahmanism in Kerala.

Vadayar Attuvela: A relic of Buddhist past

The Brahmans created the notorious sexual colonies among the Sudra women and used their male counterparts as foot soldiers who ensured the caste and Varna system, the practice of untoucahbility and pollution. The Sudras in return were given land and titles (as Nayar, Panikar, Thampy, Unni, Kaimal, Kurup, Menon etc.)with which they suppressed the local defiant untoucahable people having Buddhist lineage with bloody hands and weapons. These foot soldiers and menial hands of Brahmansim were absorbed to the Chatur Varnyam (fourfold Varna stratification of Brahmanical imagiNation comprising of Brahman, Kshatriya, Vaisya and Sudra) as the fourth and last Varna, the Sudra. The vast majority of people, the Dalit Bahujans were outside the cultural geography of Brahmanism as Chandals and Mlechas, as they are the former Buddhist and Jain population.

The Nayar dominance in Kerala history began in the middle ages with large scale Brahman settlements and militarization and still holds sway though they also want to be declared as a backward community now, as they still relish absolute power! According to state commission reports this power elites and historically advantageous group having less than 15 percent of Kerala’s population enjoy more than 32 percent share in government jobs. In higher education and universities it is more than 48 and in private owned print media and visual media it is almost 90 percent. Imagine the extent of Savarna Nayar hegemony in Kerala even today!

These henchmen of Brahmanism who cheated and killed their Buddhist, Ajivaka and Jain brethren to enforce Brahmanic caste and did the work of pimps by fetching their own women for the Brahmanic high priests with all the shameless pride of getting an elite alliance; are now hailed as the Samurais of Kerala by some fascist spokesmen of elitism who thrive in popular cinema and culture. This historical mediating middllemen are still the advocates of Gita classes, Veda and Vedantic obscurantism in Kerala and outside! They are the orchestrators of Hindu hegemonic discourses and the power heads of the Parivar forces all over the country allying with the Neo Kshatriya aspirants. They are also Hinduizing the Bahujan masses who are attracted to power and chauvinist social status! They need the numbers of Hinduized Bahujans for their pseudo majoritarian and fascist politics. It is an absurdity of history that some of them even today boast about their Brahmanical wedlock which was stopped just a few decades ago!

This Brahman – Sudra alliance or infamous Sambandham gave birth to the Manipravalam literature, the new Malayam-Tamil and later Malayalam and the Savarna elite culture of Kerala in the dark and dubious middle ages that Sanskritized and Hinduized Kerala elites and a lot of people. Even Syrian Christians boast about their Brahmanical connections more than 2000 (?!) years after conversion! Actually there were no Brahmins in the south in the A D first century! Then how could St. Thomas convert those absent Brahmans to Christianity? The coveted Brahmans came to Kerala only in the 4th or 5th century or later.

The power of Brahmanism and Hindu hegemonic discourse is that much tangible and an everyday reality in Kerala and India. This hidden Savarna elitism is the real culprit behind all the fascist pogroms and genocides in post Independent India. All the minority religions in Inida and Kerala like Jews, Muslisms and Christians still use the Pali word Pally to refer to their place of worship along with Jains and Buddhists in the south. Buddhism is making a second coming as an ethical philosophy and eco-spiritual alternative way of life all over the world and in India and Kerala in particular.

The historic affiliation to Buddhism in the philosophy and praxis of Narayana Guru the seer of Kerala modernity, his disciples and intellectuals like C V Kunhiraman, Asan, Sahodaran Ayyappan and now the new Ambedkarite Dalit movement in Kerala are significant. Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar’s illuminating subaltern hermeneutics of Buddhism in his masterpiece Bddha and his Dharma are also instrumental in the second rebellion of Buddhism against caste Brahmanism and social exclusion. Plenty of radical scholars and organic intellectuals in India and Kerala are now working on Buddhism like Gail Omvedt herself. It could be well assumed that Buddhism is emerging as the cultural and ethical alternative of the present and future all over the world and particularly in Kerala. The Bahujans in Kerala who lost their true Sramana legacy in the onslaught of Hindu Brahmanic internal imperialism are now recovering from the calamity of Brahmanism and its burden and looking forward to alternative paradigms and new ways of living.

Reference
Alexander, P C. Buddhism in Kerala.
Gopalakrishnan, P K. Keralthinte Samskarika Charithram. Tvm: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2001.
Omvedt, Gail. Buddhism in India: Challenging Brahmanism and Caste New Delhi: Sage, 2007.
Pavanan. Baudhaswadheenam Keralathil. Tvm: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2008.
Ambedkar, B R. Buddha and his Dhamma. Bombay: Govt. of Maharashtra, 1980.
Valath, V V K. Keralathile Sthala Charithrangal: Ernakulam Jilla. Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
—, Thrissur Jilla,Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
—, Thiruvananthapuram Jilla, Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
Narayanan, Aju. Keralathile Buddhamatha Samskaram. Thrissur: Current/Tapasam, 2005.

Kallil: The Last Surviving Relic of Jainism in Central Kerala

Ajay — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:27:34 +0000

The huge granite structure that houses the shrine

Kallil is a rock-cut temple in central Kerala. It is located a few miles east of Perumbavur in Ernakulam district near Odakali. According to historians like V V K Valath and P K Gopalakrishnan who have done extensive field studies and archival research in the local history of Ernakulam district it was a Jain temple till the7th or 8th century. The early 20th century commentators have also pointed out the Jain ancestry of the Kallil Pisharady.

Thirthankara image on the mantle

In the ancient Tamilakam Adikal denoted a Jain sage as in Ilanko Adikal the legendary Jain saint (who was the brother of Cheran Chenguttuvan the Chera emperor), who composed The Silapathikaram the Tamil Sramana epic at (Thrikana)Mathilakam, a few miles west of Kallil near the coast and north of Kodungallur also known as the ancient port of Vanchi or Muziris. It can be reasonably assumed that this rock structure was converted into a Hindu temple after the onslaught of Brahmanism that wiped out Buddhist and Jain cultures from Kerala in the seventh, eighth and ninth centuries through coveted royal patronage and usurpation. The historians record that the idols of Mahavira, Parswanatha and Padmavathi Devi were found from the temple. We can still see the relief of the Jaina Thirthankara on the rock surface above the front opening.

Elephant Icon a Jain Mudra

The cave shrine is housed on top of a small hillock. the top of the shrine is covered naturally by a huge granite rock. There are also images of Naga deities in front of the shrine. Now the image of the Devi is worshiped as a Hindu godess. There is also a rock carving or shallow etching of an elephant image at the back of the shrine, which again is a confirmed Jain icon or Mudra.There are also ancient ponds and tanks that offer clear drinking water nearby. The mineral water springs also confirm the fact that this was an ancient Jain Thirtha or forest cave shrine with a mineral spring that attracted devotees from far and near. We have similar relics of Jain temples in Wayanad in Sulthan Bathery and Mananthavady. In Palghat a Jain Basti still survives and a few families too. the place is called Jaina Medu. But these regions are close to the Karnataka plateau and are exceptions in the cultural geography and history of Kerala.

Reference

Valath, V V K. Keralathile Sthala Nama Charithrangal: Ernakulam Jilla. Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 1991.

Gopalakrishnan, P K. Keralathinte Samskarika Charithram. Trivandrum: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2009.

—, Jainamatham Keralthil. Trivandrum: Prabhat, 1992.

Nilgiri Wood Pegions of Pambadum Shola

Ajay — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 04:24:47 +0000

Madupatty Dam Reservoir

In the first week of December 2009 I visited Munnar Top Station and Kovilur. It was bright and sunny in the afternoon and the sky was a blue deep. As I passed Madupatty and Kundalai the fog came in and covered the green hills and dales. When I reached the Top Station the forest guard told me that it would be clear by 6pm and visibility would come back. Forest department log houses and cottages are available nearby in the Pambadum Shola National Park. There are also rooms and humble home stay provisions around. So after having a hot cup of tea I decided to stay there.

An Elusive Bird: Nilgiri Wood Pegion

At four in the evening I started my journey to Kovilur, 12 km away in the north on bike with a local guide. The KSTP road in the Top Station region for 4 km is not tarred because it is the land of Tamil Nadu projecting into the Kerala border. The board informed me that it is highest road south of the Himalayas! As we approached the check post of the National Park I noticed a big wood pegion in the nearby tree. Because of the mist and low light I could not take a decent picture, but it was surely a Nilgiri Wood Pegion! The checkered pattern on the back neck, the dark plumage tone and the size confirmed this highly threatened bird which is in the red data book.

Kovilur

Passing the forest check post we entered the moist and chilling Pambadum Shola. It was quite dark and freezing inside that thick shola at around 2000 mts in elevation. My guide and friend Suresh from Top Station told me that he has seen leopards and even tigers here. Once they were returning from the sight seeing trip and caught in front of a tiger couple! They were shocked and could not even take the camera. The eyeball to eyeball stand still continued for a few seconds and fortunately a jeep came from the back and the tigers vanished into the green thickets! There are still places like Panther Rock inside the forest on the old Munnar – Kodaikanal road now closed as it penetrates the Shola National Park. Through that abandoned and closed road Kodai is only 60 km away from Top Station! Now a new route is being developed through Kovilur. But again it is through the Kurinji Malai National Park which is under consideration.

We saw the marshy bogs and fields were Gaur and deer come to graze and drink water and marked the spots for the return journey. A giant squirrel was enjoying some tender shoots on nearby wild tree. Kovilur is a small rural town full of donkeys and vegetable fields. Eucalyptus plantations are changing the soil structure and climate here. It is at 1800 mts above sea level. After taking a few shots we soon embarked on our eagerly awaited return journey in and through the dusky shola. The mist was cleared and visibility was better

Rhododendron Nilgirica: A Shola delight!

in the twilight.

Gaur calf coming close!

The first animal we saw was a huge Indian Gaur. This bull was grazing in the distant marsh land. We admired the sight and moved forward to find a herd of Gaur right on the road. One big bull, a few big females and two calves. One calf even came to us in its naive curiosity. we watched them for almost half an hour in close proximity in 10 to 20 mts. Finally they crossed the road and faded into the Shola darkness. We soon returned to our camp in Top Station as it was getting darker and darker and unknown and eerie sounds were coming from the wild.

Indian Gaur: A small herd of a bull, few females and calves

The cold was unbearable at night and especially at the early hours of the morning. But again in the morning around 6 it all cleared and glorious sunshine was milking the whole landscape. There was a Thai film crew shooting a documentary at the view point about the vegetables and flora of the region. Typical Shola trees and shrubs are seen in and around the view point in Top Station. Rhododendron Nilgirica was in full flowring mode. As I was admiring the red jewel-like blossoms they, the fairies of the woods appeared again! Yes the Nilgiri Wood Pegions in a small flight of five individuals crossed me over head. And it was

Surise at Top Station

simply spectacular and mesmerizing in the golden morning sunshine.

Honey Buzzard of Bison Valley

Ajay — Sun, 06 Dec 2009 09:07:02 +0000

Bison Valley and Choka Mudi in the backdrop

Last Friday (4 Dec. 2009)I rode through Bison Valley in the southern slopes of Munnar. It was a bright sunny day to enjoy the phenomenal landscape that spreads beneath the heights of Munnar, the Gap Road and Choka Mudi. I used to watch the valley from above with wonder and amazement while passing through the Lockhart Gap high above at around 2000 mts above sea level.

The Bison Valley Panchayat derives its name from the Britishers who named the valley after the wild cattle abundant in the late 19th century. Indian Gaur, Tigers, Leopards, Wild boar, Sloth bear and Barking dears were common in this beautiful valley till the large scale migration that changed the ecology in the early 1950s.

In a nearby village called Muttukad terraced paddy fields and ancient Megalithic dolmenoid cysts are still seen. Higher up in the granite cliffs of Choka Mudi ruins of rock-cut caves and sleeping beds are also visible. The place has central importance in the cultural and ecological legacy of South India and Western Ghats in particular. The area was also part of the ancient trade rout that connected the Chera and Pandya kingdoms in ancient Tamilakam from the Sagham ages onwards. Now the valley is a bowl of spices rich with cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, coffee, ginger, nutmeg, aracka and clove plantations.

Bird diversity has also come down. Plenty of Malabar Parakeets and Hill Mynas are seen here on sunny days. Vernal Hanging Parrots and Malabar Grey Hornbills are also abundant. Cuckoos and Scarlet Minivets are also common.

This time as I was riding down from Khajana Para to Bison Valley I spotted a large raptor on a partially bare tree by the road. I stopped the bike and took the camera. It was an Oriental Honey Buzzard in dark morph. The red eyes and dove like head was clearly visible (See the image posted in the Photo Section). The sight of the perched bird overlooking the valley and the scenic backdrop of awesome Choka Mudi and Munnar Hills in the background was simply ecstatic. After a brief and friendly photo session my avian friend dived down to the valley where a mosaic of canopies welcomed and comforted it, it seemed.

Oriental Honey Buzzard in Bison Valley

As I was riding down again I got its second glimpse. It was soaring high above the canopies in swift and gentle motion. The sunny Friday morning was a magnificent one for me as I was really excited and contended with the sight and a few snaps.

Later I climbed up the heights of Munnar through Anachal-Chithirapuram route. As I entered the gateway of Munnar, The Pally Vasal, literally meaning the entrance of the temple (Old Jain/Buddhist shrine of worship)in Tamil a few Oriental White-eyes and Sunbirds welcomed me with light banter and cozy chirping.

Near the hydel park I also saw some Long-tailed Shrikes and Great Tits. Little Cormorants are plenty in the lakes here. After resting in the Eucalyptus plantation in the Old Munnar town near the KSRTC stand and visiting the fruit and vegitable market in New Munnar I began my return journey to Kottayam with some wild passion fruits and straw berries.